Why Do These Jeans Cost €195? The Father of Premium Denim Explains

Have you ever been shopping for a pair of jeans, have a bunch in the dressing room, find your perfect pair, flip over the price tag and go, WHAT?!


I love jeans and I love the way they make me feel (feminine but rugged, confident but approachable), but oftentimes I wonder why certain pairs warrant a price tag of $200 and up. So I decided to go to the “father of premium denim” (I gave him that title) and ask—what gives?

California native Scott Morrison started off in the denim business years ago, working for various manufacturers. But about two decades ago, Scott looked at the market and found that there weren’t any sexy, versatile, fashionable jeans out there for women. So he came up with Paper Denim & Cloth, one of the first premium denim brands. He later founded Ernest Sewn (gosh, how I loved my Ernest Sewns way back when!). Never one to stop innovating, denim’s very own Renaissance Man recently moved on to create a new brand, 3×1, focused on custom jeans, selvedge denim (denim made on rare, antique looms resulting in the softest, strongest, most gorgeous cotton denim I have ever felt). Here Scott walks us through what goes into a pair of 3×1 jeans and why this pair costs €195.


1. Hand-Set Back Pockets: “These pockets are set and sewn by hand,” says Morrison. “If you see this process [in a big denim factory] you will see an automatic pocket setter. It’s that personal detail that adds a lot of character to the jeans.”

2. Hand-Sewn Belt Loops: I asked Scott if this is for those moments when you yank on a pair of skinny jeans and the belt loops rip off. He laughed. I was serious. With hand-sewn belt loops, this won’t happen. “It gives you more strength and durability,” he adds.

3. Single-Needle Sewing: As opposed to a double needle on most denim machines, single-needle sewing “results in a better, more beautiful garment. It goes back to how jeans were made in the ’20s and ’30s.

4. Good Denim Takes Time: Only two pairs of jeans are made per day in the 3×1 studio. So you really have something handmade and pretty rare.


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