Nieuw Jurk’s latest collection was presented at Amsterdam Fashion Week on Monday July 15th. After graduating from ArtEZ in Arnhem, Esther Meijer foiunded the Amsterdam-based label who creates garments taking inspiration from youth culture, hip-hop, rave, gothic and grunge. Nieuw Jurk is a mean to convey social messages, and with the S/S14 collection it speaks about sex and porn. The men and womenswear collection, called $€XXX, is a playful and humorous translation into fashion of porn and its influences and impacts on society and sexual morality.
Elements generally regarded as sexy and seductive are combined in $€XXX to create new and playful images with porn references. Among the jaw dropping garments dresses and furry skirts, loose trousers, unisex bomber jackets, a latex poncho, an oversized stuffed bra worn over a tight jumpsuit, a bikini top made of candy, leggings and tights with furry harts used as knee patches or applied to cover the behind, a latex body with a back zipper that from the neck hem goes down over the crotch to end just below the navel. And then a boxer short with and elephant and his raised trunk (literally!), a top with a stylized face looking like an anatomical latex mask, the Amsterdammertjes (the cast-iron street poles used to delimitate non-parking areas in the city) tweaked into phallic symbols, …
Constant sexual references are made by the choice of fabrics and prints too. The collection comes in “sexy” materials like latex, fake fur and sheer nets; mainly in colours associated with sex like black and pink. A sexed up version of Cyber Dog, $€XXX‘s main print with symbols of currencies, the Amsterdam triple X and smiley faces, all drawn like neon lights, acted as a reminder of Amsterdam’s red light district and similar neon illuminated windows all around the world.
Words: Laura Viero
Photography: Hoop Doop Magazine